Category Archives: Dinner
Baked Alaska
…Add to that the melange of flavors and aromas: the rich mustard with the soft, small pearls of punch, the cooling ginger, the kicky chili, the verdant dill, and the heady cognac, all of which bouyantly supported the flavors of the mouthful bites of the salmons without once overwhelming or masking them…. [Full Post]
Pinche Bueno
…these razor clams, whose smooth, toothsome yet nicely creamy texture and deep, briny properties were deftly complimented by the kicky heat of the chili and sweetness of the caramelized garlic flavor in the oil…. [Full Post]

Cariño Cubano
…The roast pork was tender, juicy, and for once made up, by far, the majority of the meat in the sandwich. The slice of ham is not a random redundancy of pig here, adding a welcome layer instead of some added fat, “cured” flavors, and salinity. The pickles were properly bright, without being to sweet, sour or “punchy”. The “punch” rightfully came from the mustard, that with the melted cheese and panini-pressed flattened bread, kept your tastebuds awake enough to enjoy the combinations of flavors, temperature and texture for several extra seconds…. [Full Post]

Elio’s-Centric
…I had forgotten how the rest of the city—the world—kind of falls away when I’m at Elio’s. The dishes were simple yet expertly executed, channelling many layers of “home cooking comfort”. My veal was so tender that my butter knife sliced straight through it in one motion…. [Full Post]

Mom’s Restaurant
…This was a surprising success in flavors and textures; the brightened, slightly fruity pearls of molasses balanced out the slight minerality of the gizzards, parboiled to a pliable firmness and coated in crunchy cormeal breading, while still toothsome kernels of sweet corn popped among some creamy grits, accentuated by just a hint of white cheddar cheese…. [Full Post]





























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