MTK Chowder House (at American Trash) | 1471 1st Ave. (bet. 76th & 77th Sts.) | 212.988.7458 | mtkchowderhouse.com | |

THERE IS A bar called American Trash up here in Yorkville that has genuinely fulfilled its “biker bar” affect for over twenty years. I used to go visit my friend, Dieter, there in the late 80s, and for almost twenty years spent far more time remembering walking in the place is I do walking out of it.

This was the place me and my friends would go to just get twisted wild and effed up, with bartender Paulie grabbing us by the collar and pouring shots of Cuervo, Southern Comfort, or (many times, and) Jack Daniels directly into our mouths straight from the bottle.

A more mature sensibility has kept me from that type of debauchery for a few years, consequentially keeping me out of the fun yet health-risking revelries of American Trash.

So when I started to most recently hear whispers from friends that Trash (as we call it) had installed not just a performance space, but a kitchen as well, I wasn’t so much a skeptic as I was just confused.

The kitchen produces food under the name MTK Chowder House, and brief research on food websites found actual raves for their lobster rolls and for their Wednesday night lobster special, featuring a 1-1/4 pound lobster with corn and coleslaw for just 20 bucks.

My Facebook friends who barely remember their nights at Trash like I do responded skeptically as well as I updated my status with my intent to dine there, and was relieved to find the place looking as country lo-fi and “trashy” as ever, save the addition of dining tables and booths, and a kitchen where the dart board used to be.

I grabbed a seat at the still familiar bar and checked out the menu, boasting chowders, said lobster roll, an Ipswich fried full belly roll, hamburgers, hot dogs, brats, as well as entrées such as the fish and chips that my new friend and bar neighbor, Ray, ordered for himself.

Ray was already another fan of the new menu items, and told me I’d be happy with whatever I ordered. I felt I should order the lobster roll, at least to compare it to my present favorite served a little closer to me at Luke’s Lobster Upper East Side location, but decided to save that for another occasion.

The clam roll was novel enough to win my favor, so I ordered it, and in minutes, the sexy blue-eyed bartender, Kira, presented the sandwich, large and overflowing with the clams as to require eating with a knife and fork.

The sandwich was more than good, it was great. The creamy, tender, slightly briny clams in crunchy breading were full of flavor and textures, and the bright but not overly tart tartar sauce served them well.

It wasn’t until after I ordered the clam roll, however, that I was informed that the MTK burgers were made from Pat LaFrieda, the same meat purveyor who supplies the house blends for Shake Shack, 5 Napkins Burger, Minetta Tavern, and the new and excellent Mel’s Burger Bar.

Having the possibility to have a Pat LaFrieda burger without having to wait a half hour for it, in a place where I can sit down, have a shot of Jack Daniels, and watch the Yankee game, well, it was one I couldn’t pass up.

I ordered a cheeseburger, and Mark, owner of the bar and co-owner of the kitchen—who I’ve know since Trash first opened over twenty years ago—was doing the actual, his knowledge, experience, and skills appropriated after years of working at places like La Grenouille, La Reserve, Sam’s Cafe, Côte Basque, Montrachet, and for Thomas Keller.

He decided I could handle a double cheeseburger, with his special burger sauce, the only ingredient that he wold reveal being always excellent sriracha sauce.

Eff the Shack (and I don’t mean Radio Shack)! This burger is a winner. (One of my most immediate reactions being grateful and excited that they deliver as well!) This is the beautiful kind of tender, juicy, flavorful burger that requires you to eat it over your plate as the burger’s clear juices run over your fingers and down your chin. It will force me to reconfigure my top NYC burger list, but not while I was enjoying it. Even the bright but not too sweet or sour pickles were a pleasure.

The MTK in the name stands for Montauk, and the ideology of serving New England fare such as lobster and chowder in a down home, Southern bar serves to showcase the best of both worlds. And as I congratulated Mark on MTK Chowder House as he prepared some other dishes, I walked out, happy in the knowledge that, as opposed to my hazy visitations in the 80s and 90s, I will now remember walking out of American Trash a lot more often.

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

MTK Chowder House (at American Trash) | 1471 1st Ave. (bet. 76th & 77th Sts.) | 212.988.7458 | mtkchowderhouse.com | |

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

ANOTHER QUICK ROUND of PHUDE roulette (where i randomly click through neighborhoods and categories on Menupages to pick restaurants) landed me this on a quaint little place in Chelsea. After a brief commute on the 6 train, I found the eatery just past an adjunct to a place called Spoon, which sells prepared foods, pastries, and assorted cooking items.

This restaurant part of the same business as Spoon is called tbsp, a nicely comfort-fitted space with the rusticity and welcoming humor of a country inn. I found the place already serving a handful of customers just minutes after they had opened (probably wanting to avoid any crowds, as I was attempting).

The place prides itself on cooking with local, farm fresh ingredients, as was quite apparent in my brunch order of french toast with fresh fruit and a side of thick cut bacon.

Yes, warm, thick slices of bread singing with bouquets of vanilla and nutmeg were a great base for the assortment of berries and melon and cantaloupe. The bacon had perfect “chew” and great flavor without being overly salty. The mellow maple rewarded me by topping mouthfuls of however many different elements I could fit on my fork at one time.

In soon time the place started to fill up, and as I am crowd-averse, I sped up my eating, finishing what I could of my oversized brunch platter, and thanking the cordial staff for their prompt service. And although the my meal was abbreviated, it will be one that I happily remember for a long time.

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

TODAY WAS A lazy Saturday, and I knew it was going to be the kind of day I would spend catching up on Netflix movies and doing some remedial housecleaning, and when my once-daily hunger struck, I figuratively spun the food roulette and came up with chicken, long overdue in a summer full of pizzas and burgers.

Also overdue was a return to my favorite roast chicken place in the neighborhood, the popular Peruvian joint Pio Pio, so I ordered a quarter of a tasty, juicy, nicely seasoned, and crackly-skinned chicken with a side of aromatic yellow rice and savory red beans. It comes with a bright and kicky herbal sauce, and for 12 bucks, including tip, I got a hot meal—more than I could finish—in quick time.

Soon after, I was sated, grateful for my pajamas’ elastic waistband, reading subtitles, and happy. Hear, hear.

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

Mel’s Burger Bar | 2850 Broadway (bet. 110th & 111th Sts.) | 212.865.7100 | www.melsburgerbar.com | |

THE ONLY THING that I can think of that’s better than opening a burger/fries/milkshake place in the middle of a highly residential area of Manhattan is to also have a highly populous school in the vicinity. The only thing, that I can think of, that would hurt a business with such geographical fortune is for the food to not be up to par.

The just opened Mel’s Burger Bar has nothing to worry about, as I have discerned they will do banner business, having opened in the hub of Morningside Heights (the Upper Upper West Side), overrun with academics, a large percentage of native New Yorkers, scads of two-income, professional couples, and large families. Oh, yeah, and it happens to also be located right by Columbia University and its 23,000+ undergraduate, graduate, and professional students.

The place long and large, and the atmosphere is constructed to seemingly evoke the nostalgia of the eateries/hangouts of a generation ago, represented for over a generation in the fictional representations of Milwaukee’s Al’s (then Arnold’s) Drive-In, where Richie and the Fonz would deliberate over girls, and the diner that was the social headquarters for the classmates of Rydell High, where Rizzo would razz Danny Zuko. The finishes and flourishes of the decor, however, gives it a more modern sensibility.

Mel’s even offers its own beer, available in growlers, a bottle of even older provenance that looks like it’s pumped with steroids.

As my great waiter, Alex, educated me as to the nuances of its food menu, I decided to start being enjoy the “retro” familiarities of a can of PBR (if only for the great picture it would make).

I was tempted to start with a brisket chili off their appetizer menu, but chose to eat light and ordered their simply but very nicely prepared Buffalo wings.

And although there are some wonderful-sounding specialty sandwiches and entrées (such as enchiladas, a French dip, and baby back BBQ ribs), I couldn’t really attend the opening of a burger joint without having a burger, and they have a list of burger options on their “burgerlicious” menu. Mel’s get their exclusive Angus beef blend from Pat LaFrieda Meats (the purveyor of meats for places such as Shake Shack, 5 Napkins Burger, the Spotted Pig, and Minetta Tavern), so I knew the kitchen takes its burgers very seriously. Beyond their version of classic burgers, they offer as well a variety of unique and named burgers, Including a vegetarian Nurse Betty served on onion focaccia.

Since Mel’s is located on Broadway—and since I grew in Morningside Heights (my mother herself a Columbia grad)—I ordered the Alex-recommended Broadway burger, which comes with swiss, onions, bacon, and jalapeños, served on sourdough rye toast and with a side of cole slaw. To complete the experience, I joined it with fries and housemade peanut butter & jelly milkshake (from PBR to PB&J!).

A perfect medium burger (all burgers are cooked medium unless otherwise requested), aromatic toasted rye, gooey swiss, and bright, hot, and flavorful jalapeños made for a pleasingly solid burger-eating experience. The meat was tasty and ran nicely clear with juices, without the toast’s crispiness being impaired. The smoky bacon complimented—but didn’t overwhelm—the pinkish beef’s natural, sweet, earthiness. I know a burger’s good when I forget to put my default mustard on it. (The cole slaw is phenomenal!)

As of late, you may have read, I haven’t been able to finish my meals, but unlike previous recent dining out experiences, I chose to bring my leftover wings, burger, and fries home to enjoy in the near future, they were all that good.

Even though the place was started to fill up, I was able to briefly wax nostalgic with the cordially professional manager, Steven Kay, as we both grew up in the city and attended rival preparatory schools and commiserated and the same hangouts. He expressed his hope that Mel’s would become a place for neighborhood denizens, too, “hangout”. Grabbing my leftovers on my way out the door, I assured him that, despite the two bus commute, he should expect me to spend many happy days as a “Mel’s diner”.

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

Mel’s Burger Bar | 2850 Broadway (bet. 110th & 111th Sts.) | 212.865.7100 | www.melsburgerbar.com | |

‘Inoteca | 98 Rivington St. (at Ludlow St.) | 212.614.0473 | www.inotecanyc.com | |

I WAS RECENTLY prescribed three medications (for being awesome!), whose few side effects include loss of appetite. I now eat one—and not three—meals a day, so I therefore chose to make it a special one.

I decided I was going to go local today and have Turkish food for lunch, covering a place three blocks away called Beyoglu. But when I got there I found it a bit too crowded for comfort (being anxious in crowds being another new issue), even for the late lunch time of 2:30 in the afternoon. I was already out of my apartment and figured a quick trip down to the Lower East Side to check out a new place called Bun & Co. (occupying the space that formerly housed the excellent Kampuchea), but I found the week old restaurant closed this particular day, due to “gas issues” according to the paper sign taped to the front door window.

But the Lower East Side was enjoyed a prolific boon in new restaurants, so I figured I could just walk around the neighborhood and eventually find a decent place that I could enjoy, and even though I didn’t come across any of the newer places (that I hadn’t yet covered for PHUDE), I found myself on the corner of Rivington and Ludlow, in front of ‘Inoteca, and decided that this would be a good choice, especially since I have been irresponsible in posting about Italian restaurants, save the many artisanal pizza places that are popping up like champagne bubbles. It was now 3 o’clock, and walking in I was impressed with the size and decor of the space, as well with the fact that they were still doing brisk business on a slightly rainy afternoon. (I was fortunate enough be able to sit at a four-top table, away from the other, more crowded tables.)

I asked the friendly and accommodating host/manager about the “house” signature plates; he first recommended the truffle egg toast appetizer off the pane-bruschetta menu section. The dish consists of two egg yolks baked on bread, and topped with fontina cheese and truffle oil. The offer the option of adding grated bottarga on top, and me being a new fan of it, decided it was worth the extra three bucks. It comes served over asparagus.

If I could find bottarga on the Upper East Side, I would make this excellent, earthy and aromatic dish at least once a week. Expect me to, however, still prepare my own variations in the near future.

Next I ordered the polpi, or octopus (of which I have always been a huge fan), that was grilled and served over chickpeas with basil, basil oil, and a sweet red wine reduction.

A tender tentacle whose fresh, oceanic flavor, heightened by hints of “char”, went quite nicely with the nutty but smooth chickpeas, the sweet, subtle fruit of the wine reduction, and the bright, herbal earthiness of basil.

I could overhear a few diners speculate over which magazine I was a food critic for, possibly because I was taking pictures, but more probably because I was finishing any of the plates, though thoroughly enjoying the food. They may have thought more so when I ordered a third course of the budino di cioccolato, which my limited latin study helped by translate into “chocolate pudding”, topped with pistachios.

An refreshingly, “old school” consistency—more custard-y than Jello-like—with a deep, rich flavor that was more chocolate than sugar (a rarity), served nicely by the pistachios and fresh whipped cream.

At meal’s end, I could feel myself getting anxious to get home, but I was grateful that I patiently persevered after my first two attempts to eat today. And although I spent three times more than what I usually pay for lunch (though, it equals out), having treated myself to a very nice meal at ‘Inoteca proved that the third time (I tried to eat today) was, indeed, the charm.

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

‘Inoteca | 98 Rivington St. (at Ludlow St.) | 212.614.0473 | www.inotecanyc.com | |

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

Simply Peeled | 1371 3rd Ave. (at 78th St.) | 212.794.2200 | www.simplypeeled.com | |

ON OUR WAY back from just having cheeseburgers at JG Melon, Katie and I were walking up 3rd Avenue and happened across some brand new shop with a girl outside handing out free samples of something that, according to Katie, looked and tasted like frozen yogurt. The place was called Simply Peeled, and was hawking and distributing something called Fruizo™, a frozen soft serve made from just real fresh fruit, filtered water, and organic cane sugar. As they tout on their menu, consisting only of those three ingredients makes the Fruizo “free of fat, sodium, cholesterol glutens, all 8 major allergens … low in calories … 100% natural and vegetarian”.

Great, except for the fact that, just like Tasti-Delite with their chocolate chips, or Pinkberry with their Cap’n Crunch, Simply Peeled displays a great variety of toppings—among some healthy—many that would nullify any even remotely beneficial, health-wise, as I discovered when I visited earlier this afternoon. Yes, chocolate chips, and a variety of cereals, (is that Multi-Grain Cheerios?), plus the usual suspects of raisins, coconut flakes, dried fruit, granola, and nuts.

What did stand out—to me at least—was their options for savory toppings, including pretzels, tortilla chips, and, yes, wasabi pies! I decided to get a medium cup of the strawberry Fruizo (their other default flavors being banana and mango), and topped it with the wasabi peas, some pretzels, and some sliced almonds, which were a wonderful contrast flavor- and texture-wise to the robust sweetness of the strawberry in the icy, creamy-without-dairy, flavor Fruizo.

Next time, mango with blueberries, Cheerios, and salsa…!

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

Simply Peeled | 1371 3rd Ave. (at 78th St.) | 212.794.2200 | www.simplypeeled.com | |

Libertador Parrilla Argentina | 1725 2nd Ave. (on 89th St.) | 212.348.6222 |

DOING PHUDE HAS not just given me the opportunity to explore other parts of this great city that aren’t on the routes of my usual excursions, but also gives me the chance to discover the increasingly diverse dining options in my own neighborhood.

So was the case when I decided I wasn’t in the mood to travel all the way to the Lower West Side for a $15 sandwich of uni and olive oil, and randomly decided to finally check out a Latin-themed steakhouse on 89th & 2nd called Libertador Parilla Argetina, walking in and, from my table, appreciating the layout and decor, from the bar to my left, the ceilings postered with Argentinian newspapers, and the grill on my right, which would eventually produce my meal.

The tables were invitingly set, and the chalkboard by the grill appetizingly displayed the meat menu.

My decision to eat here was predicated on the discovery that they actually served sweetbreads (Google it!) or mollejas, a dish I had yet eaten, but figured I should enjoy since I am a fan of most offal (endearingly called, “the nasty bits”), such as liver, tripe, and, chitlins. After the warm bread and deep, rich, tasty olive oil, my order was grilled with lemon, cilantro, and just a hint of seasoning.

These were tasty, with a texture and firmness between cooked liver and cooked kidney, with more beef flavor and less “minerality”. The slightly burnt edges provided extra flavor and a little crunch, while side of mashed potatoes, which lacked from any seasoning, needed the help of a drizzle of the olive oil (a fine fix I will employ in the future if so necessary).

As I am a fan of short ribs (tira de asado), I ordered them as my entrée, medium, choosing the side of french fries Provençal.

It was a very tasty and juicy cut of meat, nicely seasoned, slicing tenderly, and perfectly grizzled on its edges. A house-made chimichurri sauce brightened each feral and earthy bite with fresh herbal notes and peppery highlights.

The portions of both dishes were to big to finish, and the very friendly and sweet staff quickly packed my leftovers into a handled paper bag. I was back in my apartment within 45 minutes after I had left it, happy from the short commute to a sweet restaurant that grills great short ribs and wonderful sweetbreads.

Bun Apple Tea!

.kac.

Libertador Parrilla Argentina | 1725 2nd Ave. (on 89th St.) | 212.348.6222 |